Glossary

The fashion manufacturing & design glossary

Clear, factory-accurate definitions of the terms on tech packs, spec sheets, and production calls.

What is a cost sheet in fashion?

A cost sheet is the line-by-line build-up of what one garment costs to make — fabric, trims, CMT labor, overhead and margin. Components, FOB vs landed cost, cost sheet vs BOM, and a worked example.

What is a fit sample?

A fit sample is the garment sample made to dial in how a design fits the body before production. Where it sits in sampling, what's measured against spec, fit comments, fit rounds, and cost.

What is a flat lay?

A flat lay is a product photographed from directly overhead on a flat surface. Definition, the top-down setup and side lighting, how it compares to ghost-mannequin and on-model shots, e-commerce uses, and a worked example.

What is a grade rule?

A grade rule is the measurement increment applied to each point of measure to scale a garment between sizes — e.g. 1–2" at the chest, 0.25–0.5" at the shoulder. Definition, example table, and how it differs from pattern making.

What is a lay plan?

A lay plan is how fabric plies are spread under a marker for cutting. Definition, plies and lay length, spreading modes, how the cut order plan sets size ratios, and a worked example.

What is a marker (marker making)?

A marker is the cutting diagram that arranges every pattern piece for a style and size set across the fabric width to minimize waste. Definition, marker efficiency, manual vs CAD, and a worked example.

What is a Pantone TCX?

A Pantone TCX is a color dyed onto cotton in Pantone's Fashion, Home + Interiors system — the textile industry's color standard. How the code reads, TCX vs TPX vs TPG, lab dips, Delta E, and digital vs physical swatches.

What is a POM (point of measure)?

A point of measure (POM) is a specific location on a garment where a measurement is taken — like chest 1" below the armhole or HPS to hem. Definition, standard POMs, tolerances, and grading.

What is a PP sample?

A PP (pre-production) sample is the buyer's final sign-off garment before bulk. Made on the real line with bulk fabric and trims, sealed as the golden sample, and sitting between fit and TOP in the sampling sequence.

What is a proto sample?

A proto sample is the first physical garment, made to prove the design and construction — not final fit or color. Where it sits in the proto → fit → PP → TOP sequence, what factories check, how many rounds, and what it costs.

What is AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit)?

AQL is the maximum percent defective a buyer will accept in a lot. How ISO 2859-1 / ANSI Z1.4 sampling works, the 0 / 2.5 / 4.0 critical–major–minor levels, sample size by lot, and a worked garment example.

What is CMT (Cut, Make, Trim)?

CMT is a manufacturing model where the brand supplies all materials and the factory charges for labor only. Definition, cost structure, regional rates, and how it compares to FOB and full-package.

What is FOB (Free On Board)?

FOB is both an Incoterms shipping rule and a garment pricing model where the factory sources materials and delivers finished goods loaded at the export port. Definition, price components, and how it compares to CMT, full-package, CIF and DDP.

What is ghost mannequin photography?

Ghost mannequin (invisible mannequin / hollow man) photography shoots apparel on a mannequin, then edits the mannequin out so the garment floats in 3D. How the neck-joint composite works, the shots it needs, why e-commerce uses it, and per-image cost.

What is GSM in fabric?

GSM (grams per square meter) is the standard measure of fabric weight. Definition, how it's measured, typical ranges by garment, the oz/yd² conversion, and a worked example.

What is MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)?

MOQ is the smallest number of units a factory will produce per style — typically 50–500, usually per colorway. What drives it, ranges by production type, and how new brands work around it.

What is tolerance in a garment spec?

Tolerance is the acceptable ± variance from a target measurement for a garment to pass QC — typically ±¼", ±½", or ±1cm. Definition, how QC uses it, the tolerance-vs-grade rule, and tight vs loose POMs.